Jean's Bra Clinic - BRA TYPES

BRA TYPES

 

Shopping for bras can be overwhelming because not only does it focus your attention on your body's flaws (perceived or real), there are a zillion bra styles in dozens of brands to choose from, and each one of those comes in different colors, band sizes, and cup sizes.  In addition to that, bras in the exact same model vary in construction from small band, small cup sizes with narrow straps and 1- 2 hook closures to large band, large cup sizes with wide straps and 3-4 hook closures. I hope that an explanation of the basic bra types will help you sort all that out, so that the next time you venture into a lingerie department, you'll have a better idea of what you're looking for.

 

Bras have come a long way in the past 50 or so years, partly due to innovations in construction (like the use of underwires or molded cups) and materials (synthetics, knit fabrics, microfibers, "breathable" fabrics, foam) that make it possible to address the most common consumer needs (support, uplift, enhancement, minimizing, smoothing, modesty) and preferences (bras to suit special occasions; different clothing styles like clingy knits, low necklines, strapless dresses; nursing; mastectomy; sports; leisure and sleep).  The "average" American woman is taller and heavier now than she was 50 years ago, she enters puberty sooner, and the baby boomers born then (like me) are becoming senior citizens, so bra companies develop styles for full-figured women, very young women, and mature or senior women.

 

One of the treasures my mom bestowed on me before she died was a set of her grandmother's corset strings.  When I feel sorry for myself and my clothing problems, I look at those strings and feel grateful that I'm not expected to wear a tight corset full of boning, or even a rubber girdle like the ones my mom wore when I was a kid.  If you were born before the invention of pantyhose and adhesive sanitary pads, you know why I say women really do have better choices now.  If you never had to use a garter belt or a sanitary belt, just take my word for it.

 

Here's a summary of the basic bra types.  Keep in mind that not all these types are available in every band size or cup size, because they're not suitable for everyone.

 

TRIANGLE - the oldest style of bra, this wire-free bra consists of two triangles of fabric attached to a narrow band, with narrow straps.  It doesn't give a much lift or support, so it's best for A and B-cup women or as a "training" bra for girls.  This construction is also used for "bralettes" or leisure and sleep bras because it's very comfortable.

 

X-FRAME - a wire-free style that crosses over your chest to separate and support each breast.  This works fine for A, B or C-cup women.  Example: the classic Playtex Cross Your Heart Bra.

 

NOTE: Triangle and X-Frame bras are often available with soft, stretchy cups that cling to your breasts, which can be an advantage if one breast is larger than the other.

 

M-FRAME - also wire-free, this style lifts and supports from the top, with reinforced fabric panels in an M-shaped configuration.  It works for most cup sizes from B on up.  It often has seamed cups that help shape the breast tissue.  This is what my JC Penney associates refer to as a "granny bra", but it is a best-selling style (sorry, Victoria's Secret!) and often a good choice for a full-figure woman who won't wear an underwire bra.  The M-frame bra often has wide, padded straps for extra stability and comfort.  An example is the JCP brand Underscore Comfort Strap M-frame bra.

 

UNDERWIRE - those scary wires lift and support from below, bearing up to 80% of the breasts' weight.  Available in everything from AAA to I cups, the U shape of the underwires in this bra offers shaping, definition, and curves for smaller-cup women, and excellent lift, support and shaping for larger-cup women.  A well-fitted underwire bra is NOT uncomfortable to wear.  This is also a best-selling bra type (for Victoria's Secret, too).  The underwire bra may be padded or have molded cups (with or without extra padding in the bottom of the cup for uplift or push-up), or unlined cups, seamed or seamless cups, in full coverage, demi, or plunge styles.

 

The Playtex Secrets Signature Bra has underwires that come up quite high in front (which can be uncomfortable for women with wide-set breasts, like me), seamed, unpadded cups, and medium-width straps.

 

Some underwire bras have a plunge front, wires that don't come up so far in the front, about 1" of space between the cups (more comfortable for women with wide-set breasts) and very narrow straps.

 

The push-up underwire bra gives a dramatic look often desired by smaller-breasted and younger women, or the woman who wants it to wear with a deep V-neck garments.  

This type of bra is often available with convertible straps (converting to halter style, T-back, X-back, or strapless).

 

A balconette underwire bra has wide-set straps and a wide, scooped neckline, suitable for low-cut garments.  It kind of puts your breasts up on a shelf. 

My all-time favorite bra is the Ambrielle Custom Uplift Full Coverage Bra.  The cups cover most of the breast, have extra padding in the bottom for uplift, and about 1" space between the cups in front.

 

CONTOUR WIRE-FREE - has seamless, molded or padded cups, with or without a bottom inset.  Another good choice for the woman who won't wear an underwire bra, and usually available in a wide range of sizes, but hard to find for full-figure women.  

 

NOTE: Underwire bras are also widely available with contour (molded) cups.  The extra thickness of molded cups does not add bulk or size to the breasts.  Instead, it smooths and shapes the breast tissue, and also reduces nipple show-through (some bras also have extra reinforcement in the nipple area, often called concealing petals)

 

A few more bra types deserve mention, but really need separate posts dedicated to them, so I'll try to be brief.

 

SMOOTHING or SIDE/BACK-SMOOTHING BRAS - These bras have reinforced fabric, especially at the sides (often with very wide bands that come right up to the armpit), to help smooth the sagging skin and tissue known affectionately as "side boobs" and "back fat".

 

MINIMIZER BRAS - Bali has a lot of bras in this category, most of them underwire styles for full-figure women.  They are made of reinforced fabric with less stretchiness to help compress and minimize the appearance of breast tissue.  An example is the Bali Satin Tracings Minimizer.

 

SPORTS BRAS - sports bras are available in a variety of sizes, ranging from light to super support, with lightweight to heavy-duty fabric, with or without underwires, with or without padding, and often in cotton blend, breathable, and/or compression fabrics.  They often have T shape or racerback straps (which are feature that help women whose bra straps tend to slide off their narrow or sloping shoulders).  The basic idea of a sports bra is to encapsulate or surround as much breast tissue as possible in order to reduce breast movement - less bounce results in greater comfort and modesty.

 

NURSING BRAS - available with many different features, the chief benefit a nursing bra is that the cups have pull-down panels (ideally with one-hand release closures) so that mom can nurse without completely disrobing, plus extra lining to absorb milk leakage.  Wait until the start of your 9th month to be fitted for a nursing bra, which should be sized according to your measurements at that time plus an extra cup size (which accommodates increased breast size and tenderness while nursing).

 

MASTECTOMY BRAS - Also available with a wide range of features, these usually feature extra coverage in the breast and underarm area (to conceal scars) and pockets in the cups for insertion of breast forms.

 

POSTURE BRAS - used to be called "longline"; these have features that pull the shoulders back and support the back.  They kind of cross the line into shapewear, which is a category I'm not familiar with - yet (it's coming to my JCP store soon).

 

LEISURE or SLEEP BRAS - these are made of very soft, stretchy, comfy fabric with a minimum of seaming, but offer little or no support.  They serve a purpose for women who want 24-hour modesty and are good for everyone from women recovering from breast or shoulder surgery to women with sensitive skin to nursing-home patients.

Jean

Jean,

This has been so helpful!  I found the balconette type bras earlier this year and love the way they fit.  Now I can't wait to go find one that fits properly!

Thanks so much!

Toni

Hi Jean,


Oh, great -- granny panties, now I find out I'm wearing a granny bra?!


Many thanks to you for posting the bra clinic!  I have a couple of questions:

1. According to the measuring system you posted I am a 44 DD or F. If I tried on a DD or and F cup there would be enough room in there for my breasts and Pam Anderson's! I've checked my measurements 3 times to make sure they are right. Under Armpit = 44 and Breast at fullest part = 49.5. Can you confirm if I'm figuring the right cup size?

2. I've never found a bra that I'm totally happy with, but maybe that can change. Can you recommend some bra lines that might me good for me? Here are a few particulars and problems areas.

I have a very hard time finding a bra in a 44 band size with cups small enough to fit me without the girls swimming around in there. When I do find one, I have to settle for a 42 band size which is a little snug; it tends to ride up. There is only one bra, the Bali double support M frame that fits me pretty well, which to me means that I don't think about or notice how the bra is feeling all day. I would love to try an under wire bra, but in the past have had problems with them pinching under my arms and under my breasts -- might be the wide set breast issue you talked about in one of the posts.

Thank you so much,

You're measuring as a 44DD.  When you did the first measurement, did you hold the measuring tape right under your armpits?  If so, measure again, this time holding the tape about 2-3" below your armpits, just at the spot where the breast tissue begins to protrude.

I know that Bali bra.  One of the reasons it's working for you is that it's got seamless, stretchy cups that conform to your body.

The JC Penney Ambrielle Woman line has some 44 bras.  Here is a link to them:
http://www2.jcpenney.com/jcp/x5.aspx?DeptID=50475&CatID=54101&cmAMS_T=X3&cmAMS_C=C8&CmCatId=50475|54100
The Mystique Convertible Plunge bra shown on that page might be a good choice because the underwires don't come up very far between the breasts.

At jcp.com, you can search for bras by feature (underwire, wire-free, etc.) and size.  Go to the lingerie page and select a type (like underwire) or brand (like Playtex) from the choices on the left.  On the next page, select the size, cup, underwire, and (optional) brand.  The site will then show you bras that fit those search criteria.

Jean

WOW - Who knew there were so many types of bras?  now I am feeling overwhelmed.  (and I am one of those people *****member sanitary belts and garter belts!  The kit that my mom had ready for me for my first period had a sanitary belt in it!  And I don't think my grandmother ever did convert to pantyhose!)

 Thanks Jean.  I am going bra shopping today.  I am very large, I measured a 44 H!!!  I really need a few good sports bras.  It inhibits my workouts to have the girls bouncing and worrying about them popping out.  

I am going to check out a specialty bra store that I hear people rave about around here for their one on one service and wide range of sizes. 

For the ATL folks, it's Necessities by Sherrie in Snellville.  

Andrea,

Selling bras is ALL about service.  When my store manager cuts my hours back, I tell her, "You know, lingerie is not self-service department!"

There was a specialty bra store near where I lived in Massachusetts.  They sold bras and even made custom-made bras.  I wish I'd taken the time to check that place out.

Happy shopping!

Jean

Jean, you are amazing. Thanks for posting all of this info. I bookmarked it so when I go bra shopping next time I can refer back. I'm not buying any new bras for a long time. I bought some hastily and spent a fortune and now they're getting too big already so my grandma took them in for me (she is an amazing sewer). This was also a very interesting read. Who knew there were so many types and styles.

Thank you so much...

Jean, your "Bra Boot Camp" is so educational.  So far I've learned that I'm in the correct size (38DD) but probably not in the best style for my body.  I've never had an underwire bra in my entire life that didn't stab me under the arms... now I know to look for a space in front between the wires, since my breasts are of the wide-set variety.

Eagerly looking forward to the next tidbit of bra info....the next time I go bra shopping, I will know exactly what I'm looking for!  

THANK YOU!!!