Make sure the bike fits you before you dish out the $$$$$

When shopping for a bike, the worst thing you can do is to buy a bike that is either too big or too small.  An improperly sized bike is not only uncomfortable but, more importantly, it's unsafe.

To get your correct bike size you must take a measurement of your leg.  Measure the inside of your leg from the crotch to the floor while you are barefoot.  

Inside leg measurement (inseam)	Road bike frame size	Mtn. bike/hybrid frame size	Category S, M, L, XL
29 ½ - 30 ¾ in  or 75-78 cm	48 - 51 cm	14 - 16 in	S
31 - 32¼ in or 79-82 cm	50 - 54 cm	16 - 17 in	M
32½ - 34 in or 83-86 cm	53 - 57 cm	17 - 18 in	L
34¼ - 35½ in or 87-90 cm	56 - 60 cm	19 - 21 in	XL

A bike’s size is generally measured by its frame, specifically the bike’s seat tube. The seat tube is measured from the top of the frame's seat tube (where the seat post fits into the frame) to the top of the crank (where the pedal unit or crank fits into the frame at the bottom of the seat tube).  
 

• Road bikes are almost always measured in centimeters.  
• Mountain bikes and hybrids are typically measured in inches.  
• Sometimes bikes are categorized as small, medium, large, and extra large.

****; my inseam is 25-26" (at best!)  Do they have a "dwarf" (or Robert Reich) model of mountain bike? 

/Steve

Yepper, the selection of high-end mountain bikes for youngsters is endless. Are you going to get into bikin' Foobear?

Boner

Scott,
I am shopping for my first bike in forever..
I have found two that i like, but not sure which way to go, can you help?

#1.  Diamondback Wildwood Citi for about 259

#2.  Trek 7000  for about 289

I will be basically usining the bike on the bike trails here in palm springs, some road riding two..I will be using this to get me to the gym now that its cooling off which is 4 miles one way, then the 2 miles to school then home everyday..

Hope to get some input


Scott

Both appear to be good, solid selections for what you're wanting to do. Here's a user review of the Wildwood:
 
Summary:
It was bought to help me stay physical while away from home for business. I basically live in a hotel during the week. I use this bike 2-3 times a week on a towpath. The path is crushed limestone. I put about 10-14 miles on the path and another 5-10 miles on the pavement during each ride. Generally, I like the bike. I like the price, but I made a few changes...

Strengths:
The strength of the bike is nice. It does not have a weak feel, yet still lightweight. I like the range of the gears and the SRAM shifters.

Weaknesses:
The saddle was the first to go! I did not even ride it with the saddle. I bought a more racing style saddle with the front cut-out. The bike did not come with bar ends, so they were added as well. The gear range is good, but with only about 100 miles on it I find that I already need to adjust the front derailluer. I have also found that the the brakes are needing constant adjustment as they like to stick. Lastly, I dislike the handle bar gooseneck (or whatever it is called, as it is not adjustable).

The Trek 7000 is a series so you'd be getting the low, low end of a good line. Here's a user review of a 7000 in the $1,000 range.

 

AFTER SEARCHING EVERYTHING FROM GT TO SPECIALIZED, AND ALL COMPANIES IN-BETWEEN, I FOUND THAT TREK OFFERED THE MOST BANG FOR THE BUCK. THE 7000 NOT ONLY LOOKS SHARP, BUT IS LOADED WITH HIGH END COMPONENTS THAT WORK SMOOTH AS HELL. THE LACK OF BARENDS BLOWS, BUT WITH A QUICK 30 SUCKS, YOU CAN TOSS ON A PAIR OF AFTERMARKET PUPPIES IN NO TIME. IT RIDES SMOOTH, BLOWS DOWN THE TRAIL, CORNERS LIKE ITS ON A TRACK, AND IS RELATIVELY LIGHTWEIGHT. FOR JUST UNDER 1000 BONES, YOU CANNOT, AND WILL NOT FIND A BETTER BIKE FOR THE CASH...TRUST ME, I TRIED. BUY IT AND LOVE IT.

 

Thanks Boner.  You are always reading my mind.  Please check your PM's when you get a chance for another question from when you were away.

Lou